The end of the season in Bohuslän

I am pretty sure that the end of the rock climbing season has come. Unstable weather, rain, sleet and snow. Minus degrees. Going to look at crags rather than climbing any lines. When even the most overhang crags are wet. Luckily, it wasn't just all that for us in Bohuslän. On Wednesday and Thursday we climbed superb lines in Häller and Galgeberget. Leading Chapman in Häller, about 50 meters of E2 (Finnish grade 6), was pretty much the highlight of my autumn. It was not an onsight since I had to rest, but it was one of those really good routes with several burly and tough moves with superb climbing. I am very happy and next time clean then eh! I also seconded Mallorol (E1/ 6-) after Mikko, and it appeared to be another very good line with several good moves.  In Galgeberget I lead Ormbiten (Finnish 6) and battled up Masken (E4/ 7) on a top rope, which is one of the great classics of Bohuslän. On Friday and Saturday the winter finally came in and on both days we were faced with minus degrees, frost and snow, and wet crags. Well, at least we did check out crags such as Skälefäll, Vinterberget and Välseröd and spotted several amazing lines to climb next spring. Thus bring on bouldering and indoor climbing, as I am already getting PSYCHED about next year! Although, first things first, its getting time to sharpen our ice axes for Korouoma and Scotland! 

Marjut on Masken E4/ 7

Lovely Swedish cafe - we did spend some time here too....

It is getting a bit wintery..

Mikko on Mallorol E1/ 6-. Chapman E2 goes just left to it. 

Local horses enjoying a winter day = ) 

Onsight fever!

Last two weeks have been amazing. Sunshine, superb autumn colors and empty crags. Thanks to Marjut, Mikko and Elisa, I have climbed on the sea cliffs of Kustavi and learned to jam, tackled the tricky finger cracks in Havukallio and onsighted two superb classics in Olhava. It is a real pleasure to climb in Finland since I have so many cool climbs to onsight. In Havukallio I onsighted Nössö and Kanto (both E1), fell off Hybrishalkeama (E2) and enjoyed climbing easier classics such as Hollolan Bleau, Syysunelma, Keväthuuma-variaatio and Taisteluplaneetta Gattica. In Olhava I onsighted Ruotsalaisten reitti (HVS) and the famous classic Kantti (E2), whilst Elisa enjoyed Salama E1.  It is so lovely to be back home!

Belaying in Olhava

Beautiful autumn in Olhava

Elisa on Salama E1

Beaten by Kustavi jamming!

I am back to Helsinki, to my home town! I have been away for long time, altogether 11 years. But luckily, thanks to Elisa, Marjut, Artturi and many others, I have felt myself very welcome back home. On my first weekend in Finland, my finnish pals took me away to Kustavi, which is located at the west coast of Finland. I was so excited, but then I heard that it's all about jamming in Kustavi. Bloody bleeding fingers that means! Thus, on Saturday morning we found ourselves on beautiful sea cliffs of Riskeläisniemi. There we climbed big granite offwidths and jamming cracks such as the famous offwidth classic called Kivekset (HVS 5a). I couldn't commit to the top move which has no protection, and I felt SO stupid. So easy climbing but I had no 'balls' to finish it. On Sunday Elisa and the gang took me to Hopiavuori and I got to practice jamming on 'lastenhuoneen avaimet' and 'ensimmäinen pioneeri'. I didn't take a fall nor did I rest on my gear, but my climbing style was far from a beautiful and steady onsight. But I did get my onsight, but just.

Elisa on Kivekset HVS 5a

Elisa on Ensimmäinen pioneeri HVS 5a

Marjut on Sireeni